Birds Photos</a>"</b> group</a> Link back to the group when commenting on other photos, highlight the code in the box below, right-click, select Copy, go to the photo you wish to comment on, right-click and select Paste to add the following HTML code into your comments: Seen in <a href=https://www.flickr.com/groups/birdsphotos/discuss/72157622926167958/"https://www.flickr.com/groups/birdsphotos">Birds Photos</a> Group. Few thing you should know: The first essential element in bird photography and videography is a sincere respect for the birds and their environment. In any conflict of interest, the well-being of the birds and their habitats must come before the ambitions of the photographer or videographer. Here are some basic guidelines Avoid causing unnecessary disturbance or stress to birds. • Never advance on birds with the intention of making them fly, whether they are lone birds or flocks of birds. This disrupts natural processes such as resting, foraging, or hunting, and causes them to expend energy unnecessarily. • If your approach causes a bird to flush (fly or run away) or change its behavior, you’re too close. Some birds may “freeze” in place rather than fly away, or may hunch into a protective, aggressive, or pre-flight stance. Watch for changes in posture indicating that a bird is stressed, and if you see these, back away. If focused on you, birds may miss a predator. • Use flash sparingly (if at all), as a supplement to natural light. Avoid the use of flash on nocturnal birds (e.g., owls, nightjars) at night, as it may temporarily limit their ability to hunt for food or avoid obstacles. • Do not use drones to photograph or record video footage of birds, especially at their nests. Although drones can be useful for researchers and biologists documenting bird populations (such as at island nesting colonies), drones in general can be very disruptive to birds. • Be cautious with remotely triggered cameras. Setting a trap around a fresh kill or cache is generally acceptable, but supplying bait or other lure in order to attract an animal is not. Never use direct flash, which may temporarily blind owls; a flash with a filter that lets only infrared light through is acceptable. • Concern for birds’ habitat is also essential. Be aware and respectful of your surroundings. Avoid trampling sensitive vegetation or disturbing other wildlife. Nesting birds are particularly vulnerable and need extra consideration. • Keep a respectful distance from the nest. If you’re using a macro lens or including the nest as a focal point in an image/footage with a wide-angle lens, even if you’re operating the camera remotely, you’re probably too close. Telephoto lenses of at least 500mm are recommended. • Avoid flushing adults, scaring young, or doing anything to draw the attention of predators to the nest. For example, repeatedly walking to a nest can leave both a foot trail and scent trail for predators. • Do not move or cut anything from around the nest, such as branches or leaves, as these provide both essential camouflage and protection from the elements. • Maintain a minimum distance of 25 yards from beach-nesting birds, especially solitary flightless chicks but also adults brooding, feeding, or incubating chicks. Parents frightened from their nests leave young vulnerable to swift predation from gulls and other animals, as well as deadly temperature extremes. • Situate yourself so that you are not in a direct line from the nest area to the water, which can inhibit the family and/or chicks from heading down to the waterline to feed. It is vital that chicks feed as much as possible to gain enough weight to survive their upcoming migration. If the young are feeding at the shoreline, take special care to keep your distance so they don’t hurry back to the nest area/dunes. That said, no one here knows everything. We learn stuff here every single day. Read, and ask questions. We have also created "Birds Photos" group FAQ, for the benefit of new members. More important than the subject matter is the approach to helping (or being helped by) others. Good luck and happy shooting! :) (group created in February, 2008 by M)" />
Birds Photos</a>"</b> group</a> Link back to the group when commenting on other photos, highlight the code in the box below, right-click, select Copy, go to the photo you wish to comment on, right-click and select Paste to add the following HTML code into your comments: Seen in <a href=https://www.flickr.com/groups/birdsphotos/discuss/72157622926167958/"https://www.flickr.com/groups/birdsphotos">Birds Photos</a> Group. Few thing you should know: The first essential element in bird photography and videography is a sincere respect for the birds and their environment. In any conflict of interest, the well-being of the birds and their habitats must come before the ambitions of the photographer or videographer. Here are some basic guidelines Avoid causing unnecessary disturbance or stress to birds. • Never advance on birds with the intention of making them fly, whether they are lone birds or flocks of birds. This disrupts natural processes such as resting, foraging, or hunting, and causes them to expend energy unnecessarily. • If your approach causes a bird to flush (fly or run away) or change its behavior, you’re too close. Some birds may “freeze” in place rather than fly away, or may hunch into a protective, aggressive, or pre-flight stance. Watch for changes in posture indicating that a bird is stressed, and if you see these, back away. If focused on you, birds may miss a predator. • Use flash sparingly (if at all), as a supplement to natural light. Avoid the use of flash on nocturnal birds (e.g., owls, nightjars) at night, as it may temporarily limit their ability to hunt for food or avoid obstacles. • Do not use drones to photograph or record video footage of birds, especially at their nests. Although drones can be useful for researchers and biologists documenting bird populations (such as at island nesting colonies), drones in general can be very disruptive to birds. • Be cautious with remotely triggered cameras. Setting a trap around a fresh kill or cache is generally acceptable, but supplying bait or other lure in order to attract an animal is not. Never use direct flash, which may temporarily blind owls; a flash with a filter that lets only infrared light through is acceptable. • Concern for birds’ habitat is also essential. Be aware and respectful of your surroundings. Avoid trampling sensitive vegetation or disturbing other wildlife. Nesting birds are particularly vulnerable and need extra consideration. • Keep a respectful distance from the nest. If you’re using a macro lens or including the nest as a focal point in an image/footage with a wide-angle lens, even if you’re operating the camera remotely, you’re probably too close. Telephoto lenses of at least 500mm are recommended. • Avoid flushing adults, scaring young, or doing anything to draw the attention of predators to the nest. For example, repeatedly walking to a nest can leave both a foot trail and scent trail for predators. • Do not move or cut anything from around the nest, such as branches or leaves, as these provide both essential camouflage and protection from the elements. • Maintain a minimum distance of 25 yards from beach-nesting birds, especially solitary flightless chicks but also adults brooding, feeding, or incubating chicks. Parents frightened from their nests leave young vulnerable to swift predation from gulls and other animals, as well as deadly temperature extremes. • Situate yourself so that you are not in a direct line from the nest area to the water, which can inhibit the family and/or chicks from heading down to the waterline to feed. It is vital that chicks feed as much as possible to gain enough weight to survive their upcoming migration. If the young are feeding at the shoreline, take special care to keep your distance so they don’t hurry back to the nest area/dunes. That said, no one here knows everything. We learn stuff here every single day. Read, and ask questions. We have also created "Birds Photos" group FAQ, for the benefit of new members. More important than the subject matter is the approach to helping (or being helped by) others. Good luck and happy shooting! :) (group created in February, 2008 by M)" />
Would be interesting to see what photographic equipment everyone is using: lenses, grips tripod, etc
Originally posted at 6:15AM, 3 December 2009 PDT
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M edited this topic 47 months ago.
My go to is a Nikon d600. I'm transitioning from portrait work to more nature/wildlife.
Just picked up a used Tamron 150-600.
Looking to get a 2x converter for my Tamron 70-200 2.8 for lower light days.
Also, I just picked up a camera harness for hiking so I don't have to hand-carry the equipment between spots or stuff things back in my backpack. Looking for recommendations from folks on how they hike with heavier equipment.
I also have a Fujifilm xt2.
Fujinon XF 70-300 is my favorite telephoto.
XF 10-24 f4.
I pick up used lenses as they make sense for either system. Depending on the lighting for the day I'll grab either camera.
14 months ago
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Hi everyone, I currently use a Sony A7iii with a Tamron E 150-500mm F5-6.7 lens for my bird photos, very happy with the results :-)
9 months ago
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Nikon D700, D3, D300, D800, Z7 & F3, FG. All are resting comfortably in my equipment closet except for the D700 and D3 which have amazing sensors.
9 months ago
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Canon 90D and 5D Mk ll
Canon EF 17-40L, 24-105L, and 70-300L, all but the 90D bought used at great value!
Originally posted 9 months ago.
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Admitter edited this topic 9 months ago.
Since posting 8 months ago I have sold the A6700 & A7R3 and now have a Sony A7Cr which I use with my Sigma 160-600 Sports. The high resolution allows me to crop in a long way, and the autofocus is brilliant. Sticking with what I have now.
Originally posted 8 months ago.
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jkiscycling edited this topic 8 months ago.
I've decided to niche into something "retro" and use gear that isn't common! Currently using:
Samsung NX500 w/ 16-50mm kit, 16mm prime, and 50-200mm telephoto.
Also use a Kodak Retina iiic 35mm rangefinder camera!
7 months ago
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Recently upgraded to the OM Systems OM1 MKII and purchased the OM System M.Zuiko Digital ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS II with the 1.4 Teleconverter. The lens is replacing my Leica 100-400 f4-6-3. I had great results with the Leica lens but expect better with the OM Systems lens due to Sync IS and being able to use the teleconverter.
6 months ago
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Recently upgraded to Sony 400-800G allowing for 1600mm focal length.
I have tried it and will place some photos (I'm impressed)
6 months ago
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